Snow Jog

Winter teems with life in the Sierra. Strap on a pair of showshoes and see it all.

by Guy Keeler
Fresno Bee - February 16, 2004

Bears hibernate, birds fly south and the ground disappears under several feet of snow. But that doesn't mean nature shuts down for the winter in the mountains that scrape the central San Joaquin Valley's eastern sky.

"You can see things in winter that you wouldn't see any other time of year," says Julie Miller, manager of interpretive services for Delaware North, the Yosemite National Park concessionaire.

"Snow brings out textures you don't often see, like the edges and ridges in granite. Things that seem dead or dull look gorgeous when they're dusted with snow."

Snow also reveals the presence of wildlife.

"It's fun to see their stories written in the snow through tracks, chewed pine cones and tunnels," says Miller.

Snowshoers Dan Nikolai, left, Kerri Holden and Richard Coleman race during a guided snowshoeing trip. Snowshoes take some getting used to, but make winter wilderness travel easier. (By Mark Crosse / The Fresno Bee)

With so much to see in winter, it's no surprise that more and more people are exploring the Sierra on snowshoes.

Yosemite National Park ranger Dick Ewart, who leads a daily snowshoe walk at the Badger Pass Ski Area, estimates morethan half the people on winter trails these days are snowshoers, a dramatic increase from 10 years ago when their numbers were more like one in 10.

Snowshoes allow humans to accomplish something nature did not equip them to do: walk on snow.

"Our feet aren't big enough for us to be good winter animals," says Ewart. About 10,000 years ago, after wallowing through deep snow for who knows how long, somebody figured out that by creating large pads for feet, a person could walk on snow without sinking in up to the waist.

Snowshoes come in different shapes and sizes, but they are all basically the same, says Ewart.

Way up north, where the white stuff is light and fluffy, snowshoes must be larger. That's why Alaska snowshoes are twice as big as those used in California, where the snow is wetter and more dense.

The Sherpa snowshoes Ewart selected for use at Badger Pass have a nylon decking laced to an aluminum frame.

They also have metal claws on the bottom to provide traction on hard-packed snow and cost about $200 a pair.

Several Yosemite visitors turned out to go snowshoeing for the first time at a recent midweek walk led by Ewart. Among the adventurous hikers were Dan and Kathy Nikolai of Granada Hills, Frank and Marie Voelker of Pittsburgh, Pa., and Richard Coleman of Los Gatos.

"If you can walk, you can snowshoe," says Ewart.

But snowshoeing is not as easy as it sounds. If you step on one of your own shoes, you go down.

If you step on another person's snowshoe, he goes down. Get a bit careless in lifting your feet, and the front end of a snowshoe may catch in the snow and trip you.

Luckily, the snow is soft and those who tumble usually get up smiling.

As with many things, says Ewart, experience is a very good teacher.

Ewart leads the group up a portion of the old stagecoach road to Glacier Point.

Along the way, he stops to point out squirrel tracks and a telltale tunnel the critter probably used to reach a stash of food under the snow.

Ewart also invites the hikers to marvel at how nature has equipped trees to survive winter's wind, snow and cold temperatures.

Near the road's high point, a place where a badger once ran out in front of a stagecoach and scared the horses, Ewart explains how Badger Pass got its name.

Then he points to an open slope where early skiers came to test their skills without the aid of a ski lift or the comfort of a warm lodge.

"We're going to climb that slope," he says.

"Walk at your own pace. It's only about 150 yards."

The climb leads to a good view of some of Yosemite's landmark peaks and another slope of deep, undisturbed snow.

"Snowshoes offer total freedom of travel," says Ewart, encouraging the hikers to explore the forest on their way down.

But first, the snowshoe race.

Ewart challenges the group to race to the trees at the bottom of the slope, which the hikers do with varying degrees of success.

Those who tumble in the deep snow find it difficult to rise because their arms can't find a firm surface for support.

It's an experience that confirms the value and effectiveness of snowshoes.

Ewart says snow depth in the forest often is 5 feet or more. The hikers re-gather and stare up at their route through narrow gaps in the trees.

"It would be difficult to do what we just did on skis," says Ewart.

At the end of their trek, the hikers agree snowshoeing is addictive.

"I think we're going to have to go buy some snowshoes," says Kathy Nikolai, 42.

"The great thing was the educational aspect," says Dan Nikolai, 43. "It was worth it to get out in the forest."

The Voelkers, both 63, do a lot of walking on solid ground. Both are glad they chose to give snowshoeing a try.

"It took a little while to get acclimated to walking on snow," says Frank Voelker.

"I was surprised at how the snowshoes pivot on your feet. I thought they would be flat."

"It was more difficult that I thought it would be but well worth it," says Marie Voelker.

There's a lot to see in the forest during winter, says Coleman, 64.

"The snowshoeing was fun, but it also was an educational trip," he says.

"I didn't expect that. I thought we were just going to be walking around in the snow."

Snowshoeing opens up new worlds for those who enjoy the outdoors, says Lisa Myers, district naturalist for Kings Canyon National Park.

"On snowshoes you can get into the forest and explore things off the beaten path," she says.

"It's easy to pick up the basics."

Ranger-guided snow walks are offered on Saturdays in Kings Canyon National Park and on Saturdays and Sundays in Sequoia National Park.

You don't need a lot of equipment for short snow walks in good weather.

"All you need is a good pair of waterproof hiking boots, snowshoes and whatever clothing you like to hike in," says Miller.

"Wear sunglasses, put on sunscreen and bring lots of water."

For longer outings, hikers must be prepared for inclement weather.

Wear layered clothing, waterproof pants and snow boots. Carry rain gear, a first aid kit and extra food.

Some snowshoers also like to use cross-country ski poles to help maintain their balance when going up or down slopes.

Guided snow walks led by national park rangers provide a good introduction to snowshoeing, says Myers.

After that, hikers may want to go snowshoeing on their own.

There are miles of trails to explore in the parks but Myers says it's important for snowshoers to avoid trampling the special tracks groomed for cross country skiers.

One thing is certain, says Ewart.

Once you see the forest in winter, you will never think of nature in exactly the same way again.

"I think Thoreau put it best when he said, 'The scenery you see in the summer is that which survives the winter.'"