Warren Harding, Known for his Climbs in Yosemite, Dies

Associated Press
San Francisco Chronicle, March 6, 2002

ANDERSON, Calif. (AP) -- Warren J. Harding, a rock climbing pioneer best known for his climbs in Yosemite, died Feb. 27 of liver failure. He was 77 when he died near his home in Anderson.

During the 1950s, Harding was one of only a few men who began tackling peaks and rocks that were considered too difficult and dangerous to climb, especially in Yosemite Valley.

Harding was best known for making the first ascent of El Capitan, an expedition he led up the "Nose" of the peak that reached the top on Nov. 12, 1958.

Harding was also the first to climb the east face of Washington Column, the south face of Mount Watkins, the south face of Half Dome, the Porcelain Wall, Keeler Needle and the west face of Mount Conness

In 1970, facing bad weather, Harding, then a resident of West Sacramento, and partner Dean Caldwell, spent 27 days climbing the Wall of the Early Morning Light, a blank section of El Capitan.

National media gave daily reports on their progress. The climb also spurred a battle between Harding's fans and critics who were upset with his use of expansion bolts (some 300 rivets and bolts were left in the rock face) and some scathing remarks he directed at those critics.

Harding is survived by Ms. Flomp of Happy Valley; his sister, Ardeth Barber; and nieces Sue McGowan and Debbie Barber, all of West Sacramento. A memorial service is scheduled for Sunday in West Sacramento.